Italy is officially a Catholic country
and although church attendance is in constant decline, churches and cathedrals
play an important part in everyday life, especially in Venice. The city hosts
numerous places of worship and several celebrations have religious roots. Nowadays
the Carnival is just an excuse to wear fancy clothes and masks, indulge in street
parties and eat and drink plenty. But Carnival, from the Latin "carnem levare"
- farewell to meat - has origins dating back to the 15th century. The celebrations
started on December 26th and culminated on 'Martedì Grasso' (Shrove Tuesday),
the day before Ash Wednesday, also the beginning of Lent. In the Catholic calendar,
Lent remembers the forty days period to Easter, when Christ suffered His Passion
and death on the Cross, a period of penance through fasting and abstinence from
meat. The wearing of a mask was made illegal during the Fascist government but
the tradition was reintroduced in 1979, with the main proceedings lasting just
ten days.
Most of the churches store some of the best art pieces in the
country. Opening hours vary considerably and access is restricted
during Mass services and some charge a small entrance fee. Make
sure you wear suitable clothes, as you may be denied access,
i.e.: no shorts or outrageous shirts for men, miniskirts and
low-necked dresses for women.
Basilica di San Marco, Piazza San Marco - tel 041/522 5697 - Venice's most famous building was for centuries the doge's private chapel, the tomb of St Mark and a powerful symbol of strength and independence of the Venetian state. Several Masses are celebrated during the week and especially at weekends, when access is restricted. Entrance is free but access to the Pala d'Oro costs € 1.55 and to the Treasury is € 2.07 - Open 09.45-16.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 14.00-16.00 on Sunday.
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, Fondamente Salute, Dorsoduro 1 - tel 041/522 5558 - After 45,000 people perished in the 1629 plague, the Venetian Senate promised to build a church in honour of the Virgin, hoping she could grant the city wish and stop the pestilence. A few weeks later, the bubonic plague subsided and construction works began on 1 April 1631. The church was christened salute which, in Italian, means 'health' and 'salvation'. Many buildings around it were razed to make room for the new church, which stands over 1,156,627 wooden piles driven into the mud. The statue of the Virgin on top the church main dome depicts her as the ruler of the sea, holding the baton of command of a Venetian admiral. Open 09.00-12.00 and 15.00-18.00 and the entrance is free.
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo, Castello - tel 041/523 7510 - Also known as San Zanipolo, it rivals the Frari as the largest Gothic church in Venice. Since the fifteenth century all doge funerals took place in this church and twenty-five of them are buried here. The church also hosts a foot of St Catherine, while two nude statues of Adam and Eve were removed (being considered inappropriate) and are now stored at the New York's Metropolitan Museum.
* Basilica del Redentore, Campo Redentore, Giudecca - tel 041/523 1415 - This church was commissioned in 1577, some time after an outbreak of pestilence wiped out 40,000 Venetians. The first stone was laid by the doge Mocenigo on 21 July 1577, starting off a three-day celebration. Nowadays the Feast of the Redentore (Redeemer) is held on the 3rd Sunday of July, with a magnificent fireworks display on the night before. It is also tradition, for anyone with access to a boat, to spend the night on the lagoon with friends. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
* Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, Campo dei Frari, San Polo - tel 041/522 2637 - This Gothic basilica was founded in 1250 and hosts two of the city' most famous paintings (the 'Assumption' and the 'Madonna di Ca' Pesaro', both works by Titian) and a variety of monumental tombs. Not to be missed is the Frari's exceptional 124-stall wooden choir, full of divine carvings. Concerts are often held in the church and a small entrance fee is levied (€ 2.00 except on Sunday when entrance is free). Open 09.00-18.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-18.00 on Sunday. The campanile outside stands at 85 metres and is the second tallest in Venice after St Mark.
* Chiesa di San Giacomo dell'Orio, Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio, Santa Croce - tel 041/524 0672 - Built in the 9th century on marshy ground, hence the ship's keel ceiling to reduce the building's weight. Just west of Campo dell'Orio is Venice's narrowest street, an 85 centimetre-wide Ramo Salizzada Zustro. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore, Island of San Giorgio Maggiore - tel 041/528 9900 - It stands just opposite St Mark on an island of its own. Built as a Benedictine monastery, it is now used as an international conference and exhibition centre. Open 10.00-12.30 and 16.00-17.00 and entrance is free.
Chiesa di San Moisè, Campo San Moisè - tel 041/528 5840 - Open 15.30-18.00 and entrance is free.
Chiesa degli Scalzi, Fondamenta Santa Lucia - tel 041/715 115 - Open 09.00-11.45 and 15.30-17.30 and entrance is free.
Chiesa dei SS. Geremia e Lucia, Campo San Geremia,
Cannaregio - tel 041/716 181 - Open 08.00-12.00 and 15.00-18.30 and entrance
is free.
Chiesa dei Gesuati, Fondamenta delle Zattere, Dorsoduro - tel 041/523
0625 - Built in the 17th century by the Dominican Order, it contains some works
by Tiepolo. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday.
Entrance fee is € 2.00
Chiesa dei Gesuiti, Fondamente Nuove, 4885 - tel 041/241 0158
* Chiesa della Madonna dell'Orto, Fondamenta Madonna dell'Orto - tel 041/719 933 - Locally known as the "English church" after funds from Britain helped its restoration following the 1966 flooding. Initially dedicated to St Christopher, the travellers patron, the church hosts the remain of Tintoretto and his two sons; the artist was a parishioner here and did some of the works free of charge. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
Chiesa dei Carmini, Campo Carmini, Dorsoduro - Tel 041/522 6553 - Also known as the "Santa Maria del Carmelo", this church was built in the 14th century. Although the interiors are quite dark, there are some statues and paintings depicting the history of the Carmelitan Order. Open 14.30-17.30 (Monday to Saturday) and entrance is free.
* Chiesa di Sant'Alvise, Campo S. Alvise 3282, Cannaregio - Tel 041/524 4664 - Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
Chiesa di Santa Maria Elisabetta, Riviera Santa Maria Elisabetta, Lido - Tel 041/526 0072 - Open 09.30-12.00 and 16.30-18.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 16.00-18.00 on Sunday. Entrance is free.
* Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa, Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Castello - Tel 041/523 4645 - Infamously known for the gruesome mask above the campanile's door. Some critics believe it is a talisman against evil or a portrait of a 16th century 'Elephant Man'; John Ruskin described it as "huge, inhuman and monstrous, leering in bestial degradation, too foul to be either pictured or described..." Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
* Chiesa dei Miracoli, Cannaregio 6067 - Tel 041/523 5293 - A beautiful example of Renaissance art work. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
* Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio, Campo Santa Maria Zobenigo, San Marco - Tel 041/522 5739 - Also known as Santa Maria Zobenigo, it hosts an extraordinary range of saints' relics. Adjacent to the church is the Gritti Hotel. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
* Chiesa di San Pietro di Castello, Castello - Tel 041/523 5137 - This old church stands in place of a castle and the surrounding areas are probably the oldest part of Venice. San Pietro was built in the 7th century and it was the the city cathedral until 1807, when St Mark took over. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
* Chiesa di San Polo, Campo San Polo, San Polo - Tel 041/523 7631 - One of Venice's oldest churches, founded in 837, has undergone several alterations. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
Chiesa di San Salvador, Campo San Salvador, San Marco - Tel 041/523 6717 - Open 09.00-12.00 and 16.00-18.00 (Monday to Friday)
* Chiesa di San Sebastiano, Campo San Sebastiano, Dorsoduro - Tel 041/528 2487 - You are lucky to find this church open, but if you do, enjoy the city's finest collection of paintings and ceilings by Veronese. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
* Chiesa di San Stae, Campo San Stae, Santa Croce - Tel 041/275 0462 - Beautiful baroque façade with marble statues. Its premises can be rented for private parties. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
* Chiesa di Santo Stefano, Campo Santo Stefano, San Marco - Tel 041/522 2362 - Should be nicknamed the 'bloody church', given the number of people that were slaughtered within its walls and had to be reconsecrated six times. Doge Francesco Morosini (responsible for blowing up the Parthenon and capturing the lions now to be seen outside the Arsenale) is buried here in the biggest tomb slab in Venice. Open 10.00-17.00 (Monday to Saturday) and 13.00-17.00 on Sunday. Entrance fee is € 2.00
Chiesa dei SS. Apostoli, Campo Santi Apostoli, Cannaregio - Tel 041/528 0110 - Open 07.30-11.30 and 15.00-18.00 (Monday to Saturday) and entrance is free.
Chiesa di San Zaccaria, Campo San Zaccaria, Castello – Tel 041/522 1257
Chiesa di San Zulian, Campo San Zulian, San Marco - Tel 041/523 5383 - Open 07.30-14.30 and entrance is free.
Oratorio dei Crociferi, Campo dei Gesuiti, Cannaregio 4905 - Originally a hospital for wounded Crusaders, it became an hospice in the 15th century. Seriously damaged by the 1966 floods, it was renovated thanks to foreign help.
For further information on Mass times, contact the Patriarchate of Venice on 041/270 2421
The churches marked with an * are part of the "Chiese
di Venezia Chorus" Association; a cumulative ticket can be purchased
to gain access to all these churches for € 8.00 A multilingual audio-guide
service is also available for an extra € 3.10 on the combined ticket. Further
information about the Association and its services on 041/275 0462
For information on non-Catholic places of worship, click here