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Sightseeing
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The main attractions are best viewed on board of a vaporetto
(line n.1 stops at all quays), as the Grand Canal cuts the city in half. It
starts its journey at Piazzale Roma and ends at Venezia Lido. This is part of
the public transport network and a ticket is required. The trip takes approximately
40 minutes. Once you familiarise yourself with the city, you can explore it
on foot, but remember, there are only three bridges crossing the Canal, Degli
Scalzi, Rialto and Accademia. From Piazzale Roma the first stop is at the railway
station of Santa Lucia, the last link to the mainland. Next to the station you
will find Santa Maria di Nazareth, where inside is the resting place of Ludovico
Manin, the last doge. On the opposite site is the San Simeone Piccolo church,
built in 1738, used for concerts. This church has a Sunday mass in Latin (11am).
Sail under the Ponte (bridge) degli Scalzi and admire
Palazzo Gritti, residence of one of the smartest doges, Andrea Gritti. At the
other end, where the Canal splits in two, is the San Geremia Church (covered
by scaffolding!), host of Saint Lucia bones. Still on the left side, by the
quay bearing the same name, is San Marcuola, a church built in 1728-36 apart
from its façade never completed. Just opposite is the Fondaco (warehouse)
dei Turchi, architecturally savaged last century and now housing the Museum
of Natural History. Next to San Marcuola quay is Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi,
the winter site for the Casino. The next quay is San Stae; behind is a sumptuous
building, normally hired by wealthy families for parties. Ca' d'Oro is the most
famous gilt-covered gothic palace; it hosts a collection of paintings and sculptures
given to the State by the baron Giorgio Franchetti. Less pompous is La Pescheria,
a fish market for the last 600 years.
The vaporetto now passes underneath the Rialto Bridge,
built in the twelfth century and modernised many times to its present state.
The third and last bridge was built in 1854, therefore, until then, the Rialto
Bridge was the only Grand Canal's foot cross point. The bridge hosts a variety
of shops and stalls for tourists and locals alike. Next to the Rialto quay is
Palazzo dei Camerlenghi, originally the city exchequer and debtor's prison.
Opposite is Il Fondaco dei Tedeschi, originally a warehouse and hostel for German,
Hungarian and Austrian traders. It is now the main regional Post Office. On
the same bank there are a series of restaurants where no Venetian will ever
dare to go... the food is substandard, the prices are sky-high (you pay for
the view and anything else they can think of) and the waiters are indifferent,
unless you are walking through!! We heartily wish to warn tourists about these
traps as they discredit the city excellent gastronomy.
For a list of respectable establishments, check out our food
guide. The next stop is San Silvestro, which gives access to San Polo, the smallest
of the six Venice sestiere (boroughs), but the one with the largest square apart
from St. Mark's. Campo San Polo has been the centre of traditional events since
the 15th century. Dancing and fighting between dogs and bulls were in vogue.
The main event was the assassination of Lorenzo de' Medici in 1548, on orders
by the Duke of Florence. Nowadays this square is a paradise for children wishing
to bike, play football or skateboarding but, such activities, as a plaque on
the church reminds, were prohibited in the 17th century. Such digressions were
punished with jail sentences and even exile. Between the Rialto and San Silvestro
quays there are various palaces of little importance, with the exception of
Ca' Farsetti and Palazzo Loredan (the Town Hall), where only Venetians and VIPs
can get married. Further down, where the Canal turns swiftly, is Palazzo Balbi
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(now the headquarters of Regional Administration); from here Napoleon
watched a regatta in his honour in 1807. Next to it is Ca' Foscari, built
in 1437 for the doge Francesco Foscari. It is now part of the Venetian
university. On the other end is Palazzo Moro-Lin (also known as the 'thirteen'
windows building). Next to it is Palazzo Grassi, built in 1749 and bought
by Fiat (the Italian car manufacturer) in 1984 and ever since used as
an art exhibition space. Opposite is Ca' Rezzonico, the museum designed
to reflect the décor and style of 18th century Venice. Apart from
a few Tiepolo frescoes, the whole collection is third rate and tasteless.
Eventually the vaporetto reaches the Gallerie dell'Accademia, an ex-church
monastery and school, now hosting the world largest collection of Venetian
paintings. The imposing sight of the Accademia Bridge, the third and last
one to connect the two sides of the city, is unrivalled on this part of
the Grand Canal. The bridge was built in the 19th century by the Austrians
and replaced (in wood) in 1932 on popular demand.
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The vaporetto then reaches Palazzo Venier, site of the Peggy Guggenheim
modern art collection. Opposite is Casina delle Rose, one of the smallest
houses on the Canal, famous for hosting the Italian poet Gabriele D'Annunzio
during World War One. Just past the Santa Maria del Giglio quay is Palazzo
Gritti, better known as the luxurious five-star Hotel Gritti. In front
is Palazzo Salviati, site of the Salviati glass makers. The building is
easily recognisable by its glass mosaic on the front.
Where the Canal ends and the San Marco basin begins, is the imposing
site of the Santa Maria della Salute, the monumental church built to celebrate
the end of the plague in 1630. It took 52 years to complete it and is
supported by over one million wood piles. Each year, on November 21st,
a pontoon of boats is drawn across the Canal to allow the faithful to
cross over. On the very corner is La Dogana del Mar, the old custom house,
identified by its bronze globe. This is the best spot to view the most
memorable site of Venice, with the Giudecca island on the right (mainly
a residential area with a few places like the Hotel Cipriani and Harry's
Dolce) and, on the left, Saint Mark's Square with the Royal Gardens (created
by Napoleon), the Doge's Palace, the Campanile, the Clock Tower, the Basilica
and the Zecca, the old mint.
From here on, all the buildings are on the left bank (Riva degli Schiavoni);
on the right stands San Giorgio Maggiore Island, which, apart from the
imposing church, has become a conference centre for international conferences
and exhibitions. Past the Doge's Palace, is the continued next page
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